
Greetings from Savannah…Panera Bread, who would have guessed? I counted recently and I’ve been to Panera’s in ten different states in the last month. My mother is highly jealous, her closest Turkey Artichoke Foccacia Panini is seven hours away in Las Vegas. It seems like it’s been forever since I last updated my website, but I wound up taking a couple days off to regroup and relax, find some new motivation, and also did a whole lot of driving one day, too. You’d think this would mean I shouldn’t have been all that behind with the photo editing, but I seem to have found my groove again, at least in a couple locations, and wound up having a lot of images that I felt compelled to put in the “Edit Now” folder.
After finishing the editing and posting new photos from the Panera in Charles Town, West Virginia, I opted to take the rest of the day off, took my 4Runner in for an oil change, grocery shopped, and read a Dean Koontz book while it drizzled lightly. Wednesday proved to have much better weather and I headed out to Harper’s Ferry, site of John Brown’s 1859 raid, to wander around the Virginius Island industrial ruins, and photograph what’s left of the St. Johns Episcopalian Church. I was glad that I was still ahead of schedule by a full day (due my rather sudden departure from Maine) and didn’t need to rush, since I spent much longer there than I would have thought and played around with infrared shots of the church. From there I followed the Skyline Drive through Shenandoah National Park, which was pretty, but all looked pretty much the same as well. I’m sure it will be absolutely gorgeous in another week or so when the leaves turn though. I’ve seen little patches of fall here and there for weeks now, but overall have been at least a week ahead of the leaf change everywhere I’ve gone. Short of an early fall, I already knew I was going to have to miss out on the autumn colors if I wanted to make it to Albuquerque in time for the Balloon Fiesta.
I spent my other free day in the Knoxville area, parking inconspicuously in a lot neighboring a hotel and watching the season premiers of as many of my tv shows as I could find online. It was a little warm in my car, but well worth it to satisfy my curiosity regarding some of last season’s cliff hangers. Friday dawned nice and overcast, perfect for shooting waterfalls, and I set off for the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The Motor Nature Trail itself is a six-mile, 10mph, one-way, single laned road that twists and winds along and over the Little Pigeon River. This is by far my favorite place in the park. I hiked out to Grotto Falls, which were lovely, and even more lovely because I arrived early enough to be the only person at the falls the whole time I spent shooting there. I then spent a couple more hours working my way down the road and pulling off at various pullovers to check out the cascades and moss covered rocks. I was very much in my element, and having one of those “This is why I am a photographer” moments…It was good.
After making a second loop around the Motor Nature Trail to get back to the Baskins Falls Trailhead (which weren’t worth the hike, unfortunately) I headed out towards the Cades Cove area of the park and drove the scenic loop there to scout out potential spots for sunrise the following morning. I absolutely hate Cades Cove, but it’s too picturesque to ignore. The scenic loop is eleven miles long, and a single-lane, one-way road. It wouldn’t be so bad if the hoards of people who drive it paid any attention to the signs imploring them to be courteous and use the pullouts. I realize that I am fortunate to have seen as much wildlife as I have over the years, and don’t feel compelled to take a photo of every deer I see, and I really don’t begrudge others for doing that, I just wish they wouldn’t stop in the middle of the road to do so. That said, I must admit that the bear and her cubs running across the field towards the forest were intriguing, and when I saw them again more closely when the road wound through the trees, the cubs were downright cute, even at a distance, as they clumsily clawed their way over downed trees.
Unfortunately, nature had other plans for sunrise the following morning, and I woke up several times during the night to rain. It had seemed like it was done for a bit so I set off on the five mile roundtrip hike to Abrams Falls. No sooner had I pulled my camera out at the falls than the downpour started. I threw my rain jacket over my camera so I could get some shots before tossing my camera in my bag with my jacket draped over my backpack like a cape for the hike back. The warm rain actually felt quite nice, though I was thoroughly drenched by the time I got back to my car. The Cades Cove scenic loop had been fairly empty when I’d headed out to the falls trailhead earlier, but I found myself sitting in traffic for quite a while on my way out. I stopped at the visitors center later and spoke with a ranger and asked why they haven’t installed a shuttle bus system like they have at the Grand Canyon or Zion National Park, and also got into a lengthy discussion about why entrance fees aren’t charged for the Great Smokies. I’ve been mentally composing the letter I will be writing lobbying to close Cades Cove to private automobiles, which would make the visitor experience infinitely better in my opinion, and how to fund such a program.
I was supposed to have spent that evening and the next morning taking photos from Clingman’s Dome, but the pouring rain put an end to those plans. I was feeling too restless to sit around and wait out the weather and opted to scratch my upcoming waterfall shoots in Georgia and South Carolina (overcast is good, rain, not so much…wet trails and wet rocks lead to slippery footing and lots of falling!), as well as skip Congaree National Park, which I was going to mainly because it was on the way, and I am determined to one day visit all of the national parks, but this one is a swamp, and full of snakes…lots and lots of snakes…need I say more?. Instead, I chose to head for the Cape Hatteras National Seashore in North Carolina’s Outer Banks. I knew this detour was going to add some mileage to my route to Charleston, but apparently my math just wasn’t all that great that afternoon, or I was choosing to delude myself in regards to exactly how much further it would be, but I really wasn’t expecting to add a full 450 miles to the route, oops. I also never realized just how long North Carolina is from the western point down in the Great Smokies out to the Outer Banks…about five hundred miles, I now know. And for me, that was five hundred miles of rain. I don’t think my car was this clean even after I ran it through a car wash in Traverse City (free with my oil change), and even better, I don’t think you can see any dried puke remains on the front anymore (someone vomited on my car at a bar while I was home last, eew, how gross is that? And yes, I did try to hose it off, but it was already pretty dried on there). So much for a weather forecast of just a chance of rain on the coast…
It rained off and on Sunday morning and actually seemed like it was clearing up enough that I headed down the beach at Cape Hatteras a ways to get some shots of the lighthouse from the dunes. On my way back, the wind picked up and it started to downpour, and though I knew my camera wouldn’t be happy, I was loathe to pack it away when the waves were crashing and just asking to be photographed. The cloth diaper I was holding over my camera while I shot (all bright and cheery with rainbows and bears) wasn’t quite enough protection though and I’ve now come to the conclusion that when I “broke” my camera earlier this trip on Mt. Rainier, it was more likely the rain that was causing the intitial symptoms (not that body slamming my camera and putting a hairline crack along the lens mount was a good thing either). This would explain why it fixed itself, since it likely just got wetter than I thought it had, and then dried out. Thankfully, my new camera’s rain symptoms weren’t as severe and I was able to shoot through most of its little temper tantrums. By the time I had to catch the ferry from Cape Hatteras out to Ocracoke Island, where I would catch the last ferry of the day back to the mainland, the rain had stopped and it was turning into an absolutely beautiful day. This little detour may have cost me a tank and a half in gas, as well as a missed campground reservation and a ferry ticket, but I think a day at the beach was exactly what I needed! I had a great time.
I’d been looking forward to the South Carolina portion of my trip for quite some time. Not only was I going to get to return to one of my favorite cemeteries, but I’d also found a couple of church ruins I’ve been quite eager to shoot (thanks to Paul, who gave me a coffeetable book for my birthday last year, “American Ruins,” which inspired me to expand my love of urban decay to also include historic ruins). After stopping to shower at a state park on my way down from Wilmington, NC, I had some extra time so I headed out to Summerville to see my friend Hillarie’s new house. She’s been living in Salt Lake for the last couple years but is moving back to South Carolina, where she’s from. I was originally going to crash on the floor at her new place, but due to the flooding in Atlanta, she’s had to push back her closing date. She’s a catastrophe damage inspector for one of the major insurance companies and I suspect that she’ll be spending a lot of time in Atlanta for quite a while. Her house, which is brand new, was very cute and I peeked in all the windows and wished I was in the spot to be buying my own house already…gotta get out of debt again first though. Wait, gotta finish this trip first before I can even stop putting myself further into debt!
The Magnolia Cemetery was just as great as I remembered (how many cemeteries have a sign at the entrance stating it’s illegal to feed the alligators?) and I think much of the wrought iron fencing that surrounds many of the older plots was even more rusted and dilapidated than when I was there three years ago. It was also windy that day, and when I looked at the pictures later, the moss blowing in the trees has a very haunted look, and in some cases it looks like the trees are attacking the headstones. Unfortunately, there is a downside to taking pictures in a cemetery that sits on the edge of the swamp…mosquitoes. I hated to have to use bug spray when I had just showered, but the horse-fly sized mosquitoes quickly changed my mind (I saw a bumper sticker yesterday with a picture of a gigantic mosquito on it, and the words “South Carolina State Bird”) and I wound up dousing myself in Deet more than once and still got bit several times.
Yesterday I went down to Folly Beach for an extremely unextraorindary sunrise at the pier before heading out to the Morris Island Lighthouse. Apparently the lighthouse, which sits roughly 1600 feet out in the bay, used to be on solid land. When they started building jetties in hopes that the channel into Charleston would deepen (which it did) the silt flow also changed out near the lighthouse and over time completely eroded away the island that it stood on. I hadn’t remembered the lighthouse being quite that far out in the bay, and also had forgotten that my old 300mm lens hasn’t been all that fabulous after I dropped it at a waterfall in the Columbia River Gorge last trip, and then stepped on it so it wouldn’t roll off the cliff, so I no longer carry it. My new 70-200mm zoom is amazing, but 200mm definitely isn’t 300mm…I wasn’t all that upset about not getting good shots at the lighthouse, it just meant I could head to my church ruins all the sooner.
The Pon Pon Chapel of Ease and the Chapel of Ease down at St Helena’s Island (small churches for the plantation workers since they were too far way from the bigger churches in Beaufort) weren’t all that exciting, but Old Sheldon Church was everything I was hoping it would be. Built in the mid-1700′s, it was burned during the Revolutionary War, then rebuilt in the 1820′s, and burned again during the Civil War. There were probably twenty people who came and went during the couple hours I spent there, but most just took a quick look and headed elsewhere, so I had the place to myself most of the time. I found the ruins, with their huge brick columns and scattered grave stones, in the midst of a grassy clearing with moss-hung trees, absolutely fascinating. It was a little windy for shooting with an infrared filter, which often requires minute-long exposures even with a high ISO setting, so there’s more movement in the trees than I’d have liked, but I am still quite pleased with the photos I took there.
And that about catches things up. I had planned to stay in Beaufort last night (side note, I once asked Hillarie if she’d been to “Bowfort” and she said, “No, but I have been to “Byoufort!”) so that I could shoot the church ruins again this morning if I needed, but I was content with my shots and headed down to Savannah yesterday afternoon instead. I’ve now done a much-needed load of laundry, and just finished many, many hours of editing. Hopefully you’ll enjoy browsing through my moss covered rock cascades, waves, and cemetery and church ruins. I’m not exactly sure when I’ll post the next update, or from where. I’m spending the next couple days sleeping in my little tent out on Cumberland Island so I can photograph the Dungeness Mansion ruins there, and hopefully get in some moonlight shots of the ruins as well. From there, I’ve got an afternoon at some plantation ruins in Florida before I head towards my all time favorite cemetery in Natchez, Mississippi, and then it’s on to San Antonio as I work my way towards Albuquerque, and then home. The second leg of my trip is starting to wind down, and I’m excited to come home for a few days and be social, and shower regularly. Someone book a show please!!! James, Chris…??? Hint, hint…
Oh, and speaking of being social, which reminds me of all my nearest and dearest…A big thank you to everyone who emailed, texted, or called following Paul and I’s breakup. I’m generally pretty aware anyway that I have a lot of really great people in my life, but I was especially grateful for that last week. Love you all…
New photos in the West Virginia, Virginia, Tennessee, North Carolina, South Carolina, Magnolia Cemetery, and Old Sheldon Church albums.

